Exterior of Opening Ceremony NYC/Howard Street While in New York the number one store on my must-visit agenda was Opening Ceremony. I've long been an admirer of the stores philosophy to promote emerging American talent, the collaborations it does with American brands such as Pendletons as well as Robert Clergerie for shoes and even Hakaan for one dress. I especially like the way it offers a creative retail platform to designer/retailers from key global fashion cities. Chloe Sevigny's collection is gorgeous too. Humberto Leon the owner/co-founder plays an active part in the NYC fashion scene and is someone I have a lot of time and respect for.
Here's the BUT, though. (You knew that was coming, didn't you?) For all my enjoyment of its website - window shopping, reading the blog, the great Fashion's Night Out video interview with Anna Wintour - when I actually got to the shop itself, the experience was a huge disappointment.
Without meaning to sound like a princess, I expected a lot more from the stock and store environment. It just does not match the reputation. There was also a certain arrogance to the prices. The first price tag I saw upon walking in was a pair of cream silk crochet ankle socks that were more thin air than sock. Imagine large scale fishnet tights to get the picture. They were by Rodarte - American!! so no duty extras - and costs over $400.
ARE THEY JOKING??? I've interviewed the Rodarte girls and know why their work is special (though who would pay $400 + bucks for socks from them?). But most people - like those I was with in New York - took one look at the socks draped over a bar, saw the price tag, laughed and promptly left the shop to sit outside, leaving me agitated.
When you make grand claims about your fashion philosophy online, and have a stellar media reputation it really matters that your bricks and mortar shop rewards those who have made the effort to get there.
Hakaan collaboration with Opening Ceremony
MY GRIPES
1. The connoisseur knowledge the business claims to have is not evident in the shop in the way it is online. The space is not curated, the rails are as packed as a thrift store that does not know how to merchandise. How am I supposed to know where things are, and why they are special if they are crammed on a rail?
3. Think Dover Street Market, not flea market.
I still love you though. And these.
Pendleton's meets Opening Ceremony.
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Love your honesty here. It does sound strange that they would talk the talk but then let themselves down totally with the shop. I imagine they could have done some amazing things with it, what a shame.
ReplyDeleteIm a fashion communication and promotion student from nottingham and this is the kind of stuff we analyse and learn how to do well i guess. But just to say i found your post really interesting.
ReplyDeleteInteresting piece.
ReplyDeleteI know it's a bit off track but ever since Rodarte did that horrible, offensive Juarez collaboration with MAC, I've really gone off them. Yes, I know they apologized but they really had to be pushed into doing it. I just find them arrogant and out of touch, which is borne out by the fact that they see fit to charge $400 for a pair of tights.
I never set foot in the place when I lived in NYC because I never, ever had any money. Now that I have money, and no longer live there, I occasionally shop their online store. I don't find their descriptions of the merchandise anywhere near as detailed or as helpful as (for example) Net-a-Porter, so I occasionally have to call them. They are always super nice on the phone. I'm defo impressed on that score.
ReplyDeleteI love their Pendleton collab too. Way nicer than the current Lindsey Thornburg/ Pendleton collab (see shopbop).
I think your post is very true, at least as far as I'm concerned...I often buy from Opening Ceremony online (well, after a couple of months have passed and I forget about custom charges I put in more orders - a bit like childbirth or something) but the store itself is unorganised and unwelcoming. I love their online selection but the layout can be quite odd and the models and information off-putting.
ReplyDeletehttp://mustownmore.blogspot.com
The thing that irks me the most is the sizing. Everything they sell is either a (UK size) 6-10 only if your super lucky you may be able to find a 12.
ReplyDeleteWhat a shame as I have wanted to buy from their online store many a time but my ass is too big for size 10.