THIS WEEK IN FASHION- 6TH-10TH JUNE

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large.
Additional Assistance from Bethan Holt

1. Gareth Pugh is to create a range of make-up with MAC. Gareth has been extremely canny and global about his trajectory from gothic costume designer at London Fashion Week to a junior global player with mens and womens shows in Paris and events in Florence as well as his brilliant fashion film presentations with ShowStudio. Though he now sells his collection globally, Gareth admits he still grapples with the commerciality of creativity in fashion.

Gareth and his artist boyfriend Carson, by Nick Knight (via ShowStudio.com)

'If you, as a fashion designer, you do shows but you don’t sell, it kind of becomes a bit of a vanity project,’ he admitted recently. ‘You know, that’s kind of how I started and that’s how I got going but... the two need each other, business and creativity. I’ve made my peace with that.' (Elle.uk.com)

So who is Gareth Pugh for Mac Make-Up for? And what will it do for the person wearing it?  "You put on make-up and your transform yourself, " Gareth told Alex Fury in a ShowStudio.com film last year  "from something that you are, to something that you want to be. The crux of what we do, I think, is selling people a dream to be something they haven't been before. As a designer I don't sell things that complement a lifestyle [laughs a bit to self] I create things that make your lifestyle a little bit more interesting." Hear hear to that! I'm very much looking forward to seeing what is revealed next month in New York when Mac and Gareth Pugh unveil their collaboration in make-up.

Meanwhile, here is a Pugh/Box look

2. Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge's wedding dress by Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen is to go on show this Summer at Buckingham Palace. I wonder if it is the actual gown, or a back-up? From 23rd July buy tickets from http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/

3. Frida Giannini 4 Florence Welch. Frida, (she who created the most copied AW11 collection), has long been talking about how much she adores Florence. She cited her as inspiration for her Autumn/winter 2011 show and as a muse for her Spring 2011 show too and now lo! she is to "design" Florence Welch's tour outfits! Though looking at the sketches, these are exits lifted directly from her AW11 show. They are perfect for the very leggy Florence, and will look brilliant on stage where Fl ouses her legs to maximum effect. Don't think those fabulous T-Bar shoes will stay on for long. Flo likes to go barefoot..


Some of Frida's designs (from People.com)

 4. The unstoppable Mary Katrantzou has designed two costumes for a dance for ICA's retrospective exhibition exhibition of Pablo Bronstein's work: Sketches of Regency Living. "It was a great challenge to design the costumes for the performances that Pablo Bronstein has choreographed for ICA," Katrantzou told Vogue. I've never heard of Pablo Bronstein myself, but if Mary K is involved it must be worthwhile. Mary is also doing a talk about her career tonight at the ICA with  head of St Martins Fashion MA, Louise Wilson.

Mary's designs for her Pablo Bronstein collaboration (From Vogue.co.uk)



5. Hussein Chalayan changes name of his company to CHALAYAN and launches diffusion line

A Chalayan design collaboration with Swarovski (from Independent.co.uk)

6. Update on Prada's market plans


The Power of Prada- Anna Wintour in the now iconic skirt from the SS11 collection

 7. One of my favourite designers of the last two decades, Hedi Slimane WILL make a design comeback. Though he is still musing on when and how.

8. I know its week old news, but the new Fashion East line-up is looking good, and I wanted to share

Laura Bailey wearing James Long SS11

See more of denim design duo Marques'Almeida at their site



I love Maarten Van Der Horst's fun Hawaiian frou-frou collections. See more here



9. Helena Bonham-Carter is the new face of Marc by Marc Jacobs. I KNEW her fashion moment was coming when her madcap outfits started to look cool to me about five months ago. 

Helena Bonham Carter has her best fashion moment yet, shot by Juergen Teller for Marc Jacobs (Image from CatwalkQueen.tv)

10. The World's Oldest Supermodel to be honoured by London College of Fashion 

Carmen shot by Ruven for Vanity Fair Italy in March (from Models.com)

11.New Duran Duran super video...Everyone remembers George Michael's Freedom video which starred all the supermodels of the 1990s. Now, Duran Duran are releasing a new single and have gathered together Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford for a video and cover shoot for Harper's Bazaar. The cherry on the cake is that Dolce Gabbana are doing the clothes... WE CANNOT WAIT TO SEE THE RESULTS!

Dolce and Gabbana with Naomi, Helena, Eva, Yasmin and Cindy. For more pics see Stefano Gabbana's Tumblr

12. After being honoured at the CFDAs on Monday, the BFC threw a farewell party for Hilary Alexander on Thursday night at the Renaissance Hotel in St Pancras. It was a very moving and fun evening. Suzy Menkes gave one of her heartwarming speeches, and The Daily Telegraph team created an animated precis of Hils career, complete with a cartoon Hilary smoking and drinking wine. Having worked with her all their observations were hilarious, especially when cartoon Hilary was smoking and drinking with one hand, while one-finger typing with the other as the room filled with smoke....

Hils has a chat with an even more diminutive version of herself, a puppet created by Matches and gifted by Tom and Ruth Chapman  (from 10magazine.com)

Fashion Editor at Large with Hilary Alexander

13. It's all change at Vogue as Kate Phelan leaves to become Creative Director at Topshop and Robin Derrick leaves to pursue new projects. At Hilary's party last night TopShop  MD Mary Homer told me "It was time we had a creative on board to oversee all elements of TopShop. The whole team is delighted that she is joining us, as am I." Kate Phelan herself is equally upbeat. "I am thrilled to be joining the Topshop team as Creative Director. Topshop is the most influential, dynamic fashion brand on the high street, a pioneer in both store experience and designer collaborations. I look forward to contributing to Topshop's next chapter" (via Telegraph.co.uk)

Kate Phelan at the shows (from showstudio.com)

Kate Phelan's previous styling for Topshop campaigns (from CLMUS.COM)

DESIGN YOUR OWN BOAT SHOES? DON'T MIND IF I DO!

Posted by Bethan Holt

Yesterday morning the Fashion Editor at Large entrusted me with my first solo mission as her Intern. When I heard that this would involve the opportunity to design my own Timberland deck shoes, a double-whammy of excitement ensued as a long time devotee of all items shoe-related. Just two weeks ago, I was curled up in my pyjamas revising for the final exam of my English degree and now I was a shoe designer (kind of!). So, I rocked up to Fournier Street where Timberland had transformed their store into a showcase for their AW11 collection and a hub for breakfast and boat shoe design.

The Timberland Store in E1

First up, I was talked through the new collection by Isabella Colombo, Timberland's Merchandise Director. It's an interesting moment for the brand as they try to add a more feminine touch to their women's offer. There were certainly some great winter shoe contenders including some very cosy looking shearling lined boots and some super pretty dusky pink peep toe boots with scallop detail. Isabella told me that the inspiration behind the line comes from the plight of women in the two world wars- an era when women were doing men's work but still wanted to stay true to their femininity. This a very logical path for a brand like Timberland to go down as well as (perhaps inadvertently) tapping into the 40s trend which you should be prepared to see a lot more of next season.

After lots of yummy breakfast, it was shoe design time. I was under strict instructions from Fashion Editor at Large to make sure my design had an unmistakably fashiony edge. After much deliberation, I decided that my ideal boat shoes should probably match my ideal boating outfit. Now, when I say boating, I mean cocktails at dusk on a super yacht in St. Tropez (we can all fantasise can't we?!) and for such an occasion the look below from Celine's SS11 collection would do just the trick.

My Perfect Boating Look courtesy of Celine SS1 (Image from Catwalking.com)

My Boat Shoes

With this in mind, I created a pair of deck shoes in navy, emerald green and white with ivory laces and, la pièce de résistance, my own initials in gold on the inside, just to remind me of my one and only design moment. I must say I'm rather proud and I think my customised boat shoes will put my Dad's 'vintage' M and S versions to shame. I certainly won't be waiting until my invitation for cocktails in St Tropez arrives to wear them! When my shoes arrive next week, I will post a photo of them.

NOTE FROM FASHION EDITOR AT LARGE:

With their boat shoes Timberland are definitely having a fashion moment. Teenagers and early 20-somethings have colonised them over the last two years and given them a new lease of fashion life. I couldn't go to the launch this morning as I was on deadline for Grazia, but I am very jealous that Bethan was so clever with her design. As soon as I have a minute, I will be going to http://www.timberlandonline.co.uk/  to design my own, hopefully in time for this years greek holiday. (Prices from £105 - £210.)

Also here are my favourite two boots from their A/W collection.

CFDAS: YOU'LL FEEL LIKE YOU WERE THERE

Posted by Bethan Holt and Fashion Editor at Large

We've had a snoop around to find all the most fabulous, non-red carpet pics from Monday's CFDAs... Enjoy!

Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs (WWD.com)- Wang's little face is ADORABLE!

Giovanna Battaglia from Derek's Blasberg's blog on HarpersBazaar.com

Chloe Sevigny and James Gardener A.KA SubversiveGlam (his twitpic)

AWW- LIz Tyler provides a shoulder to rest on for French Graffiti Artist Andre Saraiva
(from wwd.com)

Kirsten Dunst and Phoebe Philo looking like twinnies (From Derek Blasberg again)

Mary-Kate Olsen with Olivier Theyskens (from wwd.com)

Cameron Silver, Michelle Harper and Rod Keenan all looking like they may have just come from the Mad Hatter's Tea Party- Fabulous! (via Silver's twitter feed)

The inimitable Hilary Alexander, dressed in her signature texture mix plus statement necklace, with her CFDA from telegraph.co.uk- Fash Ed At Large will be attanding her farewell party tomorrow.

And now for Her Musical Highness, LADY GAGA...

Before the event in her Mugler creation- pic from the Twitter feed of her trusted stylist, Nicola Formichetti.

Keeping it in the family- Gaga with her sister Natali and Formichetti (his tumblr image)-
they're ravin'

A little later... a layer has been removed from Gaga's outfit to reveal... pretty much everything. Here she is with Terry Richardson (From Derek Blasberg)

Karolina Kurkova and Gaga: Fierce + colour co-ordination. Formichetti's twitter.

Gaga with Patti LaBelle at the after-party (Formichetti's Tumblr)

Our favourite image of the night- A megastar image from Formichetti's Tumblr

And the winners were...

Fashion Icon Award: Lady Gaga

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Marc Jacobs

Eugenia Sheppard Media Award: Hilary Alexander

International Award: Phoebe Philo

Womenswear Designer of the Year: Proenza Schouler

Menswear Designer of the Year: Michael Bastian

Accessory Designer of the Year: Alexander Wang

Swarovski Award for Menswear: Robert Geller

Swarovski Award for Womenswear: Prabal Gurung

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design: Eddie Borgo

Founders Award: Hal Rubenstein

Board of Directors' Special Tribute: Arthur Elgort

THE NEW GEN GANG!

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

The NEWGEN Crew throwing some shapes for the SS12 fashion season. Lookin good!

The British Fashion Council last night announced its 17 designers, selected by a panel of judges, (of which I am proud to be one), to receive NEWGEN sponsorship to show their Spring/Summer 2012 collections at London Fashion Week this September. I'm very proud of them all, and to be honest got a bit emotional seeing them all lined up for their victory shot. I'm such a wuss.

THE RECIPIENTS ARE

Catwalk sponsorship: David Koma, Holly Fulton, Louise Gray and Michael van der Ham.
Presentation sponsorship: Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, Dominic Jones, J.W. Anderson and Nasir Mazhar.
Installation sponsorship: Jordan Askill and SISTER by SIBLING.
Exhibition sponsorship: Felicity Brown, J. JS Lee, James Long, Palmer//Harding, Thomas Tait and Tim Soar Woman.

It was wonderful to see that Natalia Vodianova had taken time out to support her fellow countryman David Koma at the Pimms and pork-pie cocktail party on the terrace at Somerset House last night. Daisy Lowe also came to support Craig Laurence. Looking at David and Natalia together, you can see that apart from their Russian bonds, they have a sweet friendship and doesn't she look utterly fabulous in his clothes?

David & Natalia

At the end of the evening, a few wags decided to play naughty with the designers names, originally displayed in correct order on an old-fashion cricket score board for the night. The anagrams are far too rude to publish here, but it was a lot of fun reading them.

Images courtesy of:

Vogue.com

Britishfashioncouncil.com

TEDDY BOY COMEBACK FOR AW11

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Additional research by Bethan Holt

For Autumn/Winter, we will be seeing a lot of influence from the British youth subcultures of the 50s and 60s, notably Mods and Teddy Boys. So, we decided to investigate what was de rigeur for these young people seeking to break free from the wartime austerity which characterised their childhoods.

Abbey-Lee as a Teddy Girl in Dolce Gabbana AW11

First up, the Teddy Boys. These teenagers from disadvantaged areas of London are often credited as being the first to define a distinct identity for a group that weren't children, but were also not quite ready to call themselves adults. I am always keen to find a literary reference and that is easy-peasy with the Teddy Boys as their high maintenance look has roots in the dandy figure of the late-Victorian and Edwardian era, some 50 years before. In fact, the name Teddy Boy comes from this association with the Edwardian period. The poster boy for this look is the venerable Oscar Wilde whose preoccupation with velvet jackets and flamboyant buttonholes is legendary

Teddy Boys got their influence from Dandies. Their icon was Oscar Wilde. Here he is looking whimsical in the 1880s (image from www.wikipedia.com)

 The dandy attitude- placing having fun and looking pretty  above all else- provided an ideal template for the Teddy Boys. We have been hugely entertained by the brilliant names for all the elements which made up their look. The BROTHEL CREEPERS were orginally worn by soldiers fighting in North Africa in WWII and the thick crepe sole would save feet from getting burnt. Back in Blighty, they carried on wearing the army issue shoes out and about and so the creeper became the brothel creeper (we'll let you make the connection!). There is also a theory that the name comes from the creep dance which all self-respecting Teddy Boys perfected. 

Prada's flatforms for SS11 bear more than a passing resemblance to the Brothel Creeper

Doing the creep! (Photo- a 1980s teddy revival- from A30yoyo on Flickr.com)

WINKLE PICKERS provided an alternative to the brothel creeper; a sleeker option which 
has consistently survived in the mainstream (Image from http://www.riotmode.net/) How fabulous is this shot?

Also demonstrated above are the ANKLE STRANGLERS, which would be sewn in at the
bottom to create the desired effect. A coloured sock peeping out at the bottom finished
the look. Finally, the DUCK'S ARSE is probably the last thing we'd want on our head 
but this is the name given to highly sculpted, grease heavy hairstyle sported by the Teddy 
Boys. Although not exclusive to the Teddies- it was widely worn throughout the 50s , its
prevalence shown through the film which arguably epitomises the decade, Grease- it is a 
vital part of the signature look.

Elvis with his "Ducks Arse"

Here is a fascinating clip of Wayne Hemingway (of Red or Dead fame) discussing his
impressionsof the style choices of the Teddy Boys.  Key musical heroes for the 
Teddy Boys included Jerry Lee Lewis, Elvis, The Drifters and Cliff Richard (Never
thought you'd see his name in a fashion blog did you?). We also love the video below
of Buddy Holly, who was another key musicalinfluence on the Teddy Boys, on a 
rather prim and proper American dance show. The contrast between Buddy's rock
and roll sound and the perfectly poised ladies in the background, dressed

in their Dior 'New Look' influenced attire shows the tug between vastly different
reactions to the post-war era. Don't you think everyone should be dancing around
the background rather than standing tall, looking like puppets?!

The Teddy Boys certainly paved the way for men to become more engaged with their
fashion choices  but it wasn't just a question of style. The Teddy Boys may have been
swathed in velvet and inconveniently tight trousers on the outside, but these outfits 
were a mask for a more sinister motive. They were notorious for carrying around
knives in secret pockets of their jackets. After the release of Blackboard Jungle, they 
rioted and so the Teddy Boy name became associated just as much with violence as it
was with the seismic shift in men's attitude to fashion which they spearheaded.

Dolce and Gabbana are mostly responsible for bringing the Teddy Boy back into the
fashionconsciousness. They used velvet collars, winklepickers, coloured socks and
even a hint of a duck's arse to recreate the Teddy Boy aesthetic. Phoebe Philo also
references the subculture in her Celine Pre-Fall collection.

Dolce and Gabbana AW11

Celine Pre-Fall 11

Images courtesy of Catwalking.com and Style.com