THE WEEK IN FASHION 15th-19th AUGUST

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

We've been having an exciting week here at Fashion Editor at Large; on Wednesday we were helping put the finishing touches to Mary Portas' fabulous new concept store in House of Fraser (a project which the FashEd has been very involved in. She is the genius behind 'armery'!). If you're anywhere near Oxford Street then take yourself to the orange lift from where you will be transported into a retail narnia where bellboys and brilliant stylists (passionate, enthusiaistic and knowledgable) will ensure a stress free shopping experience.

Mary with a member of her mannequin army (Image from telegraph.co.uk)

Secondly, our #BRINGMCQUEENEXHIBITIONHOME campaign is really gaining momentum. This week GraziaDaily, Handbag , Evening Standard and The Guardian have all joined us on our mission. While from a personal perspective we might be gunning for this because of our love of great design and beautiful clothes, we passionately believe that this is an exhibition which is important for so many reasons besides that; Lee McQueen's story is an incredibly inspiring one given where he began, what he achieved and his path to those achievements.His legacy will form an integral part of the UK's cultural heritage for many, many years to come so it is only right that we begin as we mean to go on.

Rosamund Urwin's Evening Standard piece from Thursday.

This week, the Global Language Monitor has decided that London has taken over from New York as the world's fashion capital- tell us something we didn't know! This shift has been explained as a consequence of the Royal Wedding and Kate's extremely wise choice to commision Sarah Burton at McQueen to create her wedding dress. This fact really does make bringing the exhibition to London a complete no-brainer. As a graduate of Art History, and clearly someone whose first love is not cutting edge fashion, Kate is the perfect example of how McQueen resonates as a brilliant artist as well as fashion designer.

The eyes of the world on the Middletons in McQueen (Image from Zimbio.com)

Legendary Vogue and Harper's Bazaar editor Diana Vreeland is to be the subject of a book, a documentary AND an exhibition at Venice's Fortuny Museum. Vreeland is a standout figure from 60s and 70s, known for her very particular style and modus operandi. In the photo below, I can't help but think of Miuccia Prada and her banana earrings- I know Vreeland's jewellery is a shark's tooth, or similar, but the quirkiness is just as cool. We can't wait to absorb all we can from these upcoming Vreeland themed projects, in  the meantime, some rather brilliant quotes.

A style tip - 'I always wear my sweater back to front, it is so much more flattering'

On taste- 'I'm a great believer in vulgarity - if it's got vitality.  A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika.  We all need a splash of bad taste - it's hearty it's healthy, it's physical.  I think we could use more of it.  NO taste is what I'm against'

Vreeland, animated (image from nymag.com)

London College of Fashion represents yet another reason why our city fully deserves its global fashion capital status. So, we are thrilled that the College is to open a pop-up shop on Carnaby Street to coincide with London Fashion Week. Among the designers whose wares will be sold in the space are William Tempest, Ada Zanditon, Beatrice Boyle and Hesan Hejazi. Opening night is on September 8th (Vogue's Fashion Night Out) and the shop will be part of the Carnaby Catwalk event on the 10th.

William Tempest's AW11, illustrated by Victoria Lyons (Image from thefashionscou.blogspot.com)

Nicholas Ghesquiere was interviewed this week by WWD. Bridget Foley's piece offers some particularly notable insights into the development of Balenciaga over the past few years- it seems models have had a lot to do with the label's direction. In fact, if it hadn't been for models spying the prototype of the now massively recognisable Lariat, then it may not ever have been produced on any great scale at all. Ghesquiere tells Foley that 'The handbag element was and is a great element of a growing business'. Balenciaga (as a business) had recognised this and the lariat was simply one of a number of potentials which had been dismissed. Until, that is,'every girl who was walking [the show], including Kate [Moss] came in and was like, ‘What is that? Is it vintage? Is it something that you found at the flea market?’ I was like ‘No, it’s a handbag that we prototyped but just didn’t produce.’

Image from allure-allure.blogspot.com

 Ghesquiere also credits Gisele with steering him away from crazy high heels and back to flats; 'I understood sometimes the pain on the feet... the idea was to have this crazy casting with Gisele and Amber Valleta and Carolyn [Murphy]. They were not used to walking with heels any more. Gisele was worried; she would not work with my heels' These comments are an invaluable insight into the power of the model to override, or drive the creative vision. Ghesquiere clearly believed that the models were more important to Balenciaga than the high heel. Maybe this is also about a woman's perspective though; Ghesquiere admits to exploring the house's archives and finding lots low-heeled shoes, he understood that these would be more comfortable for a woman to wear and such assumptions were confirmed by Gisele, and so the Balenciaga flat was re-born.

Gisele walking for Balenciaga SS11, in flats (Image from dailymail.co.uk)

 After the very exciting news that Isabel Marant is to open a store in London, we were also thrilled to hear that Helmut Lang is also getting in on the act with their biggest European store opening on Westbourne Grove on September 1st. A Helmut Lang shearling coat is top of my AW fantasy shopping list, as modelled by Saskia de Brauw.

Helmut Lang AW11 (Image from Style.com)

Finally, CONGRATULATIONS to Micheal Kors who married Lance Le Pere this week on a beach in New York state. Kors said 'To marry someone as wonderful and special to me as Lance barefoot on a glorious beach is more than I could have dreamed of''. I concur entirely, for I would also like to marry someone as beautiful as Lance, barefoot on a beach.

Lance and Michael (Image from WWD.com)

IF YOU'RE JOINING US FROM THE EVENING STANDARD/GUARDIAN

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large

Then welcome, and thank you for coming to check out our #bringmcqueenexhibitionhome campaign. Rosamund Urwin and Imogen Fox have said it all. You can read Fashion Editor at Large, Melanie Rickey's thoughts about why this is such an important cause here. Please do take the time to sign the petition by following the widget below,  adding your thoughts in the comment section and tweeting the link with the hashtag #bringmcqueenexhibtionhome.

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For your appreciation, Alexander McQueen FW10, his final collection (style.com)

FW11 TREND #3: HERITAGE

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large.

Next up on our menu of FW11 trend reports is Heritage- think blue-blood, aristocracy, crumbling stately homes and wholesome country pursuits. This trend encompasses a lady in two very different, but equally glamorous and elegant guises. In the first, she is hunting, riding and shooting thus requiring riding coats with practical elbow patches, a warm polo neck and some jodhpurs. When the horses are stabled and the guns stored, the skirts come out, but are still tweed-centric, and the addition of a decorative silk shirt  transforms the gutsy equestrian to Lady of the Manor. This is our muse.

Celine's riding inspired opening look for FW11(Image from catwalking.com)

Margaret Howell FW11

Two women who sum up this trend are Wallis Simpson and The Queen (we are very sorry Your Majesty, to mention your name in the same sentence as a woman's we can imagine you are not mad keen on but fashion needs must). The Queen is the ultimate country pursuits poster lady, always resplendant in custom made riding jacket and neatly knotted silk scarf. Even at 85, recent pictures show she is still able to pull off this look with aplomb.

A young Princess Elizabeth riding with her sister, Princess Margaret (Image from telegraph..co.uk)

Softened with a silk scarf. A lesson for Ronald Reagan from The Queen (Image from wikipedia)

 There is a great deal of buzz surrounding Wallis Simpson at the moment. Most notably, Madonna is preparing to release her biopic W.E which examines the life of the woman who remains somewhat of an enigma; there is still great intrigue surrounding her relationship with Edward VIII and the reason why he would choose this woman over the God, country and duty he had been brought up to believe in. Sartorially, Wallis represents our archetypal Lady of the Manor. A legendary hostess, Wallis always dressed exactly as the occasion demanded and her look was invariably accessorised with a cigarette.

Wallis with Edward. Her suit is ladylike AND tweedy (Image from englishtap.com)

Let's not forget that not so long ago, Madonna herself developed quite an obsession with all that is English and Aristocratic. She rode, she shot, she had the Gloucestershire acres and she wore the tweeds. The manifestations in her look and lifestyle may have now worn off, but her involvement in W.E indicates that something of this story had a great resonance for her. To celebrate the film, Vanity Fair's September Issue features a shoot with the actors playing Edward and Wallis, James D'Arcy and Andrea Riseborough respectively. Arianne Phillips has done a sterling job collaborating with the likes of Dior, Dunhill and Stephen Jones to create bespoke pieces for the shoot. Very handy too that they also provide perfect inspiration the Heritage look.

Lady of the Manor does evening in Dior and Cartier (Image from www.fashionista.com)

Andrea Riseborough wears a brilliant Dior twist on tweed  (Image from www.fashionista.com)

Dashing (Image from www.fashionista.com)

So those are the muses... How did the catwalks do it? Here are some of our favourites.

A careful concoction of tweed, elegance and modernity at YSL (Image from catwalking.com)

Gucci. Perfect for Afternoon Tea. The stole adds glamour and keeps you warm in blustery big houses! (Image from catwalking.com)

Tweed, deconstructed. Modern day Girl of the Manor at Erdem (Image from catwalking.com)

Mulberry make it modern with crinkly socks and long hair (catwalking.com)

Celine's Pre-Fall collection pre-empts this trend. The trench is a good transition alternative to full on tweed (Image from style.com)

Celine makes riding the tube as elegant as riding a stallion. (Image from style.com)

Now, do it yourself. As we have previously said, don't take these things too literally otherwise you may end up looking like a walking anachronism. That said, I have been fantasising about my own riding coat from Savile Row and some custom made riding boots. Equestrians and Ladies of the Manor alike are all well catered for. Here is our curation of what's available NOW.

Fedora £55 from Reiss

Skirt £170 D&G at Net-A-Porter

Shirt £270 See by Chloe at Net-a-Porter

Riding Pants £64 American Apparel

Elbow Patch blazer ASOS £65

Chelsea boots £62 Topshop

Pretty, pretty dress £175 Whistles

ISABEL MARANT: THE HOTNESS CONTINUES

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

Isabel Marant is one of those designers who has kinda been blinkered to her success for years, but on purpose. She doesn't really want to know about the fashion world and all that. She knows a certain kind of girl/woman loves her clothes, but she keeps to herself, and is famously anti the Internet. The first online retailer she worked with was Net-a-Porter but she only joined them last year, ten years later than everyone else, and only because Natalie Massenet and Holli Rogers politely stalked her until she gave in.

This portrait comes from an excellent Australian fashion magazine called Russh

Now it seems the British public have politely stalked her and she has given in again - it was announced today that on a date in the near future Isabel Marant will open her first London boutique at 24 Bruton Street, on the same run of shops as Maison Martin Margiela and Stella McCartney. Cue a lot of happy Twitterers this morning, including me.

Though the reality is I could only afford one item a season, and I would have to really, really love and want to get a lot of wear from said item as Marant is not cheap. According to one report, the lease is costing £750,000 over 15 years, or £50 grand a year. Judging by my calculations that means Isabel Marant needs to sell 51.55 pairs of her new knee high fringed boots at £970 (see below, with the gorgeous pocahontas fringed dress that has a waiting list at Matchesfashion.com) to cover that off. That won't be hard, fashionistas are positively drooling over her latest Navajo inspired collection. A cosy patterned Navajo jumper is one of the most popular pieces (patterned knitwear is having a major high fashion resurgence for Autumn) and on waiting lists at Liberty (where stock goes on the shop floor, Thursday).

Tunic £1190 from www.matchesfashion.com (image via Catwalking.com)  

Isabel says things like "I don't belong to the generation of spending time on the internet,"  (she is 44) and "My collections remain very personal, even if there is a certain evolution within my design. I’m trying to cultivate the cosy, elegant attitude that is always mine." And the most interesting: "I'm quite anti-consumerist. Its difficult for me to be a designer in an industry I don't like."

THE boots, also available in cream

This introverted attitude clearly works for her, as Isabel is producing massively successful collections. In fact for about the tenth season in a row, Isabel has got a very desirable, trend-setting, sexy and and popular collection on her hands. This shot of french Vogue Editor-in-chief Emanuelle Alt wearing another suede fringed tunic from the AW11 collection popped up online yesterday. Lets not forget Alt used to be the brand's stylist and Alt's husband, Franck Durand, is the artistic director of the Marant company.

How divine does Alt look in this? (Via stylecaster.com)

So now onto the pieces that have got the fashion-lovers in a tizz of acquisition. Of course I can see exactly why, but I'm not going to get swept up in it all (she lied..)
THE ESSENTIAL MARANT/ AW11

Jumper £445 from Liberty- Arrives Thursday (Image via catwalking.com)

Necklace £485 at www.matchesfashion.com (Image via catwalking.com)

Feather tunic £265 from www.matchesfashion.com (Image via catwalking.com)

The Nelcie Dress £695 from www.matchesfashion.com. All arriving in September! (Image via catwalking.com)

SIGN THE PETITION #bringMcQueenexhibitionhome

Posted by Fashion Editor at Large

This campiagn is starting to gain momentum now. Grazia magazine is supporting the petition on Grazia Daily, Katie Grand of LOVE Magazine, Lucy Yeomans of Harpers Bazaar and Susie Lau of Style Bubble are helping raise awareness so we can #bringMcQueenexhibitionhome. Please add this widget to your blogs, and tweet. This is the beginning of the campaign. It grows from here... we can make it happen.

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START YOUR GAGA LIST NOW!

Posted by Fashion Junior at Large.

It may still be August, but our minds have firmly turned to Christmas this morning with the news that Lady Gaga is to take on Santa, opening her own Christmas pop-up shop, Gaga's Workshop, at Barney's in New York. And this is no half-hearted edit with Gaga's name simply stuck on as a marketing ploy. Oh no, the megastar and her close collaborator Nicola Formichetti have personally worked on a collection of gifts. These will be sold in the 'Gaga grotto' which will take over the entire fifth floor of the store. On top of that, there will be loads of products, from books to jewellery made from sweets, which Gaga will handpick for the space. Luckily for anyone not in NY, a selection of Gaga's gifts will be available online.

Ho Ho Ho, Ho Ho Ho (Image from www.LadyGaga.com)

 This wouldn't be a Haus of Gaga project without some extravagant exhibitionism. In that spirit, the store's windows will all be dedicated to the collaboration. Barney's CEO Mark Lee told WWD that “Where the windows have been the centerpiece in the past, they will be a huge important part of the story, but now, we also bring the windows to life upstairs with the shopping experience.” There has not yet been any confirmation of a performance of some kind but wouldn't it be brilliant to have the real Gaga singing Christmas carols as you went about your last minute present shopping?

So what might we expect to find in Gaga's festive space? Well, we're gunning for a new take on the infamous meat dress, perhaps a turkey version.  And some seasonally themed armpit hairdyes, green or red, or even gold. It would be great to see her supporting some young designers by getting their pieces into her space. She recently wore a rubber dress by Birmingham City University Fashion graduate Rebecca Short. Get on the case Nicola!

Gaga does graduate design, by Rebecca Short (Image from dailymail.co.uk)

The Gaga store might also sell gifts to inspire customers to explore their individuality. Lee told WWD that 'Holiday is about joy, sharing and inclusiveness, and to me, Gaga really represents all of that...Her platform is so much about positivity, individuality and universality in a very today way'' Might we see a Joe Calderone (Gaga's male alter-ego) wig or clothing collection?

Gaga as Joe, who has a bit of the Bob Dylan about him, don't you think? (Image from dailymail.co.uk)

Ultimately, we're sure that Lady Gaga will shock and surprise with her shop choices. There's no doubt that it will be THE retail experience of the Winter, with so much more than the products enticing customers in. We are pleased to hear that the Gaga Workshop will be donating 25% of its takings to charity. At the moment, we can only dream of what it might be like but if anyone can revolutionise Santa's grotto, and bring it, somehow, kicking and screaming into 2011, then the Lady for the task is Gaga.