Friday, 5 October 2012

ANNA DELLO RUSSO'S #TODAYIMWEARING SS13

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Original Anna photo from leeoliveira.com, accessories from style.com
It's Friday at the end of fashion month a.k.a time for a little bit of fashion silliness. Therefore, may I present to you a potential vision of the future... It's Anna dello Russo as she might possibly look when she gets her hands on the key accessories of SS13, which probably won't be too long from now. Ms. Dello Russo launched her H&M accessories collaboration yesterday- a blingtastic selection of golden earrings, statement sunglasses, embellished clutch bags and higher-than-high stilettos- but I'm quite sure that she'll be the first to bring some of SS13's more avant-garde accessories from the catwalks to the eyes of street style blog enthusiasts the world over.

From top-to-toe, Anna is wearing...

Comme des Garçons crushed metal hat which was constructed in collaboration with artist Graham Hudson. It looks like it could be a hefty load but all Anna's yoga, swimming and hat wearing will surely have prepared her magnificently for the task.

Chanel hula hoop bag, Karl's latest accessory super plan which fuses the brand's classic quilting with a fun twist. I really hope the hulas are removable so we might see Dello Russo performing an impromptu hoops performance, taking the street style catwalk to the next lev.

Left foot: Phoebe Philo's furry heel for Celine- totally weird and will take a lot of coming to terms with. The furriness is not the most practical fabric for walking anywhere remotely dirty as it could come to resemble the bottom of one of those street sweeper machines, not such a good look. They would be mighty snug though.

Right foot: Prada's sock/sandal/ platform hybrid which does bear more than a passing resemblance to a wedding cake.

I'll leave you with Anna's fashion shower video for H&M, in case you were in any doubt about my choices being a little extreme, there's no such thing in Anna's fabulous world of fashion... Happy Weekend!



Thursday, 4 October 2012

WANT TO KNOW HOW TO BE AS CHIC AS A PARISIENNE?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

There's nothing like going to Paris to make a girl feel a bit inadequate. Especially if you happen to be there during fashion week when the chicest, sleekest and most beautifully attired locals are out in force. I'm not saying that every Parisienne is superbly dressed but there is definitely an envy-inducing girl around most corners.  I know because I am fresh from a few days hot-footing it between showrooms and appointments in the City of Light and have been feeling this "Oh "I'm just not cool and French" feeling quite strongly . There are plenty of French brands which have brought that nonchalantly stylish vibe to these shores, including Comptoir des Cotonniers. As my last stop before the Eurostar, I went to talk to the brand's Creative Director, Delphine Ninous to see if she might divulge some sort of magic formula by which I could live forevermore. No such luck, but she was happy to opine on why we might all put French ladies on such a pedestal, as well as telling me about how she approaches the design process, her personal wardrobe staples as well as the collaboration she has just done with Uniqlo- a lovely capsule collection of down quilted jackets which tie very nicely into the A/W trend for high-fashion puffas.
Delphine Ninous, Creative Director of Comptoir des Cotonniers
 FJAL: How did your collaboration with Uniqlo come about?

Delphine: Well, we are part of the same company (Fast Retailing) so it was quite an easy decision from that perspective. At Comptoir, we really like those Ultra Down jackets which Uniqlo did and saw so many people wearing them but it wasn't something we have. It wasn't that easy! You know it's much harder than you think it will be to get it right. We wanted to add more of a style element and that meant Uniqlo had to find new ways to do things. So there were lots of solutions to be found to get it so that we were all happy.

FJAL: How do the Mademoiselle Plume jackets fit with the rest of your collection?

Delphine: Like everything at Comptoir, it's all about how you wear so it and i think there are so many ways to wear Mademoiselle Plume. I like that it's not a puffa that you wear just to ski, it's urban and you can wear it all day, whenever. You could wear it with a skirt or with tailored pieces- I like to think like it's your friend for anything. It's so pretty but also it's actually warm. Also we have seen puffa become more of a fashion trend, not just practical, so it was the right time to have one in our collection.


Comptor x Uniqlo Mademoiselle Plume jackets, click here to buy 

FJAL: I love the name Mademoiselle Plume, it gives the jackets such personality. Is there a "Mademoiselle Plume"? Who is she?

Delphine: She is a French girl who plays with fashion. She's chic, playful and free as well as being totally feminine. Also, mademoiselle in French sums this up, like being young and carefree but also plume (French for feathers) is obviously what the jacket is made of but feathers fly away on a whim- that's Mademoiselle Plume.


Mademoiselle Plume strikes a pose in Paris 
FJAL: Comptoir is a brand which represents that cool French style so many girls around the world want to capture, are you conscious of that? How do you "create" it?

Delphine: For a long time, we didn't really think about it at all. But once our stores began to open internationally people began to tell us about this French girl thing. I think it's important to keep your instincts, your soul while also understanding exactly what it is that foreign countries want from us and we try to deliver! I think it's about but being sophisticated, but also natural like not going for the whole look head-to-toe but mixing things up. Of course, we think about other places too. Like London girls are really creative which you don't see so much of here. I think the way you dress is really influenced by the music, literature and culture which surround you and that's where all these different style come from. When a French girl gets up, she doesn't think "what shall I wear?", she thinks " what am I doing today?" then gets dressed from that.

FJAL: There is so much in the British media about how french women have the best attitude to life- whethwr that's how they stay thin, or bring up their children, or treat their men and of course, dress. Do you think there's a kind of magic formula which french women live by?

Delphine: Oh my god.... Maybe it's about balance. Like, we have a very natural sense of values I think. So we try to keep everything as simple and natural as possible from our appearence to our families. We don't always put lots of pressure on like nedding to be the best mum, the best friend, the best girlfriend we just stay ourselves and hope for the best! I am not wonder woman, so let's not even pretend.
I love the idea of using the jacket as a base layer under a smarter winter coat as  a pop of colour. 
FJAL: What are your starting points when you design a collection? How do you find inspiration and themes?

Delphine: Every moment of every day I'm looking around, looking at eveything and taking it in. I go to London , Belgium and Japan a lot so it's good to see what I feel there and take in those different vibes. Somehow key things start to come together and I gether up images and themes. But fabric is also really important to me so when I am looking at those, lots of ideas come to me.

FJAL: You've been at Comptoir a couple of years now, what have you changed or introduced?

Delphine: Well when I joined, there was also a new CEO so we've had a completley fresh team which is important. I wanted to bring even more of a fashion element so there are key trend pieces which we're including more now. I've also introduced more colour which I think makes it more fun. My big goal is the surprise pieces, you know that feeling when go in a store to get a winter coat and yu come out with an amazing party dress? I  love that and I want girls to come into Comptoir and feel that surprise of finding something they love but didn't expect.

FJAL: Do you have style icons, or people who inspire you?

Delphine: It has to be Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg, that family. They are so easy chic, but of anther time and generation. I love that. But also my friends because they all have such different shapes and tastes so I like to know what they think. Their opinion can make something become a key piece, even if I hadn't considered it before. Luckily, they usually all agree- if I love something they love it too, but I just need to know.

Jane Birkin and Serge Gainbourg... Delphine's style icons (image from art247.com)
DELPHINE'S TOP 3 WARDROBE STAPLES

1. A men's jacket or blazer- "These are so strong and give you sich an attitude, it doesn't matter what else you're wearing"

2. Suede boots- "Go with anything, they're easy and comfortable. Perfect"

3. A silk blouse- "I love that this mixes a masculine shape but the silk is feminine and feels luxurious on your skin"

Mademoiselle Plume jackets will be available at Comptoir des Cotonniers and Uniqlo from Saturday. Prices range from £69.90 to £99.90

Wednesday, 3 October 2012

SS13: HEDI SLIMANE AND SAINT LAURENT, WHAT SAY YOU, WORLD?

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large


Paris Fashion Week was billed as the battle between Raf and Hedi. Which designer would deliver and show us a new way to dress, a new version of what they're known for while staying true to the codes of the houses they're designing for? It was sad that it had to be a "battle" in the first place, couldn't both designers propose something unexpected and fresh without it being a head-to-head thing? Maybe those would be different propositions but choice is no bad thing.

Well, it's turned into something quite different. Raf's collection for Dior was generally much loved and without drama.  Hedi Slimane's debut collection for Saint Laurent is a different story. There was  major pre-show hype, some upset caused by super controlling behaviour from PRs, heaps of praise from Slimane's mentor and Yves Saint Laurent's partner Pierre Bergé as well as Kate Moss ("Gorge!") then lukewarm reviews from fashion editors which led to the publication last night of a slightly bizarre letter from Hedi (well, it was posted on his Twitter page) to New York Times' Cathy Horyn branding her "a stand-up comedian" as well as making sly digs at her book, her style and how Dior might give her a 2-for-1 tickets whereas "she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent". Ouch.

The whole episode has opened quite a can of worms about how Saint Laurent have handled Hedi's debut - or perhaps how Hedi himself has chosen to direct it - as well as whether it really matters commercially if a collection gets a so-so verdict from press. What would the reviews have said if editors noses hadn't been put seriously out of joint from the pre-show diktats and seating issues? Or do editors really let these things affect them? Was the collection properly good, or a stab in the dark from a menswear designer out of his depth in the womens' arena?

And what sane designer would refuse to take questions post-show from Sarah Mower of US Vogue, Suzy Menkes of the New York Times, Lisa Armstrong of the Telegraph and Laura Craik of The London Times? And why not?

We've gathered all sides of the story into one place....


THE LOVERS

Pierre Bergé: "Sublime... He respected the codes of Saint Laurent."

Diane von Furstenberg: "I completely identify with that look, and I think he did a great job"

Kate Moss: "I want it all"

Alison Mosshart: "It's the best thing ever"

Harrods' Marigay McKee told Vogue: "He delivered a slick collection fusing his contemporary silhouette with rock-meets-Seventies-inspired styles that echoed an iconic era of the house drawing heavily on the archives. This strong aesthetic reflects the continued demand for a more pared-back look, which has been prominent over the last few years - with many women buying less, and picking clever investment pieces that can be mixed and matched. The focus was very much on the cut, fit and fabrication, and this was a collection that is perfect for our customer."

Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent muse: "He is our saviour... I love the fact he has the same attitude as Yves Saint Laurent, a lot of things in common with him, he understands his times totally."


THE NOT-SO-GREAT-ERS

Robin Givhan, The Daily Beast: "Slimane’s silhouette looks to be so unforgiving that it could be a financial liability to a brand trying to build its clientele"

Jess Cartner-Morley, The Guardian: "But the show left viewers with a hankering for more of the Slimane-stamped skinny tailoring which dominated the first few exits, and fewer of the dress-and-cape outfits. An industry who arrived at this show preparing to be scandalised at how Slimane ignored the YSL heritage left wishing he had imposed himself just a little more"

Tim Blanks, Style.com: "It seemed that witchy seduction was the agenda of the evening. A bizarre way to stake a claim to one of fashion's most unimpeachable legacies, maybe, but it felt perfectly in tune with what one could legitimately claim to be Slimane's California obsession"

Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph "The problem was, that like quite a bit of this collection, the accessories were slightly underwhelming... Crucially, what was lacking was the frisson of the unexpected - that challenging jolt that only a really strong show delivers"


HYPE AND CONTROL

Imran Ahmed, Business of Fashion: "It was the latest in a series of bizarre communications from a PR team whose attempts to control communication about YSL — whether coming directly from the brand itself or independent media outlets — seems obsessive...

"When we explained our thinking, namely that no designer can claim that every single collection is a commercial success, and politely declined to change the article, we were informed via email: “Don’t correct, fare [sic] enough, we won’t collaborate on any kind of project in the future"

Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph: "For starters, there was the seating. Or the standing, with some journalists admitted only right at the back. ("Don't worry", soothed the PRs, "you'll be standing with your peers") . Then there were the instructions about the change of name. Sorry, names"

Lisa Armstrong, The Telegraph: "I would love to be able to watch his evolution at this house. Judging by his apparent fear of any kind of objective criticism, however, I fear I won't be allowed back"

Laura Craik, The Times- in an open letter to Hedi Slimane "All the things you seem to love and value — music, fun, sexiness — require freedom. You have yours. I have mine. Without it, we are nothing. So please, don’t ban me from your next show, because I really want to see it. We all do. We like you, even though you treat us like a bitch"




"I was not invited. Despite positive reviews of his early YSL and Dior collections, as well as a profile, Mr. Slimane objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons"

"And that was the problem: the collection was a nice but frozen vision of a bohemian chick at the Chateau Marmont. Or in St. Tropez. Mr. Slimane’s clothes lacked a new fashion spirit"

"I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years. If so, that might be an interesting perspective. But there wasn’t something new to learn here"

THE HEDI LETTER

Some have said that Hedi's twitter account could have been hacked by a stirrer and these may not be the words of the man himself. However, nearly 24 hours later no denial has been issued nor has the tweet been removed. 

From Hedi Slimane on Twitter- click to read more easily
THE TWEETS


Had a really weird dream last night that I was in Zara circa 2008.

Word for word RT: Backstage at YSL :no questions no photographs. us: can we breathe? Pause: yes you can breathe

From hot dogs 2 Hedi, is it just me or did the fashion industry just get really, really dark & scary all of a sudden? Why all the hate? 


Hedi Slimane's odd behavior is creating more headlines than his somewhat underwhelming first show for YSL: 

Did Saint Laurent's Hedi Slimane refusal to seat top editors front row in Paris fuel bad reviews? 



Tuesday, 2 October 2012

SS13: PARIS POSTINGS

Posted by Bethan Holt, Fashion Junior at Large

Jeu de Paume, just outside Tuileries on the Place de la Concorde
I'm in Paris for a couple of days to check out the Spring/ Summer collections. You'll be hearing plenty about my trip in coming posts but as today is still busy, busy with appointments I thought I'd share a few snippets of what I saw yesterday....

LUXE SPORT ROBES AT ALESSANDRA RICH

I went to see Alessandra Rich's delightful SS13 collection, among the expected gorgeous full length, mightily embellished dresses were these robes, one for "Olga" and the other for "Irina". These are the imagined muses for the collection- 80s gymnasts who are sparkly and sporty simultaneously. A lucky few of Alessandra's special clients can get their own named robes. Genius

Gymnast Olga Kurbut competing at the Richfield Coliseum

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD'S HOKUSAI SHOES

Kirkwood's SS13 offering will have shoe fans foaming at the mouth- there's every kind of wonder style a girl could need, from knee skimming snakeskin gladiator heels to jazzy low heeled pumps, as well as a perspex heel in every colour of the rainbow. One section of the collection is inspired by Hokusai's famous giant wave painting "The Great Wave of Kanagawa". 




EQUIPMENT'S 70S SHIRTS

Equipment is well loved for it's easy silky shirts. The brand began life in the 70s as brainchild of Carine Roitfeld's partner Christian Restoin. Serge Azria of Current/Elliot revived the label in 2010. This season, Equipment has acquired its own archives and so from now on we can expect revivals of original prints in each collection. These blue/white hearts and mossy florals are the first to make a reappearance.


 
 Original Equipment shirts
Image from terrysdiary.com

Monday, 1 October 2012

SS13: Our Top 10 Songs from the Catwalk

Posted by Kasia Hastings, Fashion Intern at Large

As fashion month comes to a close it seems that music has never been such an important part of shows. Designers are now keen to make the soundtrack to their collections as hot as the clothes themselves and the fash crowd are as quick to switch on their Shazams and snap up the day's hot show tune as they are to capture its must-have accessory. Designers such as Christopher Kane collaborated with the crème de la crème of the music world this season. Beth Ditto’s live performance at Versus turned the presentation into more of a rock show than fashion and music had similar influence at the Jean Paul Gaultier show which paid tribute to 80's music greats such as David Bowie and Madonna. Bowie also played a part in Raf Simons debut Dior show. Simons used a Schubert piece from The Hunger, Bowie's 1983 vampire film to assert his individual identity at the fashion power house.

Here are our top 10 tracks from New York, London, Milan and Paris...

1. GRIMES – "OBLIVION"
Played at Victoria Beckham + Theyskens Theory
2. NINA SIMONE - "SINNERMAN"
Played at Carven
3. THE GOSSIP - "HEAVY CROSS"
Played at Versus
4. CLIVILLES & COLE – “A DEEPER LOVÉ
Played at Dsquared2 
5. MONTELL JORDAN - "THIS IS HOW WE DO IT"
Played at Moschino Cheap & Chic
6. CHRIS ISAAK - "WICKED GAMES"
Played at NO.21
7. TOM ODELL - "ANOTHER LOVE"
Played at Burberry Prorsum
8. THE XX - "CHAINED"
Played at Belstaff 
9.  BAT FOR LASHES - "LAURA"
Played at Blugirl
10. FRANZ SCHUBERT - "TRIO IN E-FLAT" (The Hunger Soundtrack)
Played at Dior (Pre-show)




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