THE WEEK IN FASHION: JANUARY 28TH- FEBRUARY 1ST

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

We may have got through January unscathed (hurrah!) but now it's February and just one week until the AW13 shows begin. Helpfully, our stateside friends have been compiling some excellent articles full of tips for getting through fashion weeks in the very best way possible. First comes US Vogue's guide to getting slimline calves and ankles. They've pre-empted the chunky calf epidemic which is set to spread thanks to the newly fashionable chunky, low heel. Without our leg lengthening stilettos  we're all going to be revealing the reality of our sizable lower leg. Thankfully, there are tips from ballet experts and the like for some last minute crisis aversion. I love the Platypus walk, it's great fun.

Low heels like Louis Vuitton's need slim legs (image via westeastmag.com) 

My week has been blighted by a yucky cough and cold so I find the New York Times rundown of everything editors and designers do to prevent the lurgy during fashion month extra pertinent. indeed, the flu and norovirus epidemics which are sweeping both Europe and America make illness a real possibility. There are some brilliant anecdotes, including how one editor held vomiting throughout a Chanel show. FYI, there will be no touching this fashion season.

On to the rest of the week's fashion news now. Let's begin with the drama which occupied most of everyone's Monday morning, did Jennifer Lawrence's Christian Dior dress rip at the Screen Actor's Guild Awards? Of course, the DM thought so, but they don't have quite the appreciation for couture construction as some. It was soon made clear that it was down to the tiered nature of the gown that it appeared to split apart. You might have thought they'd think of that before they sent an actress quite likely to win an award out in the gown? Nevertheless, Raf did a gorgeous job on Marion Cotillard's dress.

Marion Cotillard in Dior (image via stylebistro.com)

Huge congratulations to Nicholas Kirkwood, winner of this year's Vogue Fashion Fund award. Who doesn't love Mr Kirkwood's bright, beautiful and glamorous shoes? Even so he had to beat off stiff competition from Mary Katrantzou, Roksanda Ilincic, Emilia Wickstead and Peter Pilotto. Nicholas will get £200,000 to invest in his business, as well as targeted mentoring from the very best industry experts. He already has stores in London and New York, plus a newly-debuted men's line. We can't wait to see the rise and rise of Britain's brightest shoe talent.

Nicholas Kirkwood celebrates his Vogue Fashion Fund award (image via vogue.co.uk)

Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem SS13, lovely! (image via shoera.com)

It was only a matter of time before Karl Lagerfeld's sharp tongue made another appearence. This time, it was directed at Michelle Obama and her new bangs...

“I adore Madame Obama. . . [but] frankly, this doesn’t suit her. The fringe was a bad idea, it’s not good.”

Somehow, we think FLOTUS will above Lagerfeld's comments. Besides, if reports are to be believed then she will have been busy this week being shot for the cover of US Vogue by Annie Leibovitz. Then there's the small matter of getting through a second term at the White House.

Go Michelle and your new bangs! (image via yahoo.com)

In yet more proof that the nineties are back, DKNY has reissued 15 pieces from their archives in collaboration with Opening Ceremony. The label made its name in 90s streetwear so its only right that they get in on the act as it has a renaissance now. And who better to model the collection than everyone's favourite model , Cara Delevingne? Get yourself to Opening Ceremony this weekend, in store or online, to get your hands on a cropped hoodie, zip up jumpsuit or a natty bomber jacket.

Cara's cornrow buns for DKNY x Opening Ceremony

It's never a good time to do a photo shoot on a holocaust memorial, but particularly not at the same time of year as Holocaust memorial day. Spanish blogger Pelayo thought it would be a good idea to take advantage of the stark architecture and the way his bight pink bag would stand out against the grey columns, but all in all it was a terrible idea. Think before you blog people. 

In further fashion getting political news, a petition for Victoria's Secret to stock mastectomy friendly bras and prosthetics attracted signatures from 120,000 people. Allana Maiden began her campaign because her Mum- a breast cancer survivor- really wanted to be able to shop in Victoria's Secret again as she had done before her op. Find out more about their mission in The Daily Beast's excellent report.

Anita Roddick, founder of The Body Shop 

If your childhood was remotely like mine, then you might remember visits to The Body Shop, where they would hand out canvas bags with their anti-animal testing slogans plasted across the front. It was a strong message and a campaign which the store, which was originally founded by Anita Roddick, has kept up for nearly 20 years. In 1996, a petition calling for an  end to the practice attracted 4 million signatures. Now, the EU has listened to Body Shop, and their partners Cruelty Free International and banned animal testing. It's just sad that Anita Roddick didn't live to see the day.

Betty Halbreich, Bergdorf's personal shopping legend and subject of
Lena Dunham's new show (image via style.com)

Just when you thought Lena Dunham couldn't be any more awesome, it turns out she can. Reports suggest that the Girls creator is working on a new show about Bergdorf's personal shopper Betty Halbreich. Details are sketchy but this still excellent news to start the weekend on, isn't it?

THREE NEW WAYS TO CARRY YOUR HANDBAG

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Weird and wonderful ways of holding bags is no new fashion phenomenon. Take a second look at any catwalk show and you will see that a very specific strategy for the holding of accessories has been masterminded so that it is elevated beyond its mere status as a constructed object to become a kind of ideology. This week, there are some updates to report in the world of handbag placement trends. Pay attention...

1. VICTORIA BECKHAM'S "GIANT BAG AS A CLUTCH"

The neatness and petiteness of a clutch bag has made the whole handbag holding dilemma far simpler since they became acceptable for daytime use. However, the ever practical Mrs Beckham has thrown a spanner in the works this week by visually suggesting that we take a giant, structured leather holdall and pretend it's a clutch. It looks quite awkward and would probably only work if your bag contained only tissue paper.

2. THE ONE SHOULDER RUCKSACK

Did you hear Melanie talking about rucksacks on Radio 4 on Tuesday? If you did, then you'll know that the coolest way to carry the coolest bag of the moment is to sling it over one shoulder, rather than going the whole preppy hog and hoiking it up on both shoulders. It may look nonchalant, but this method is actually the most practical, allowing quick access to your worldly goods. See Cara Delevingne.

3. THE ACROSS THE BODY IN FRONT OF THE BODY

There's no doubt that a bag with a cross-body strap is a life friendly option, leaving hands free for holding hands, drinking tea and the such. However, if you have even a trace of boob, they tend to be extremely unflattering, nestling into your cleavage and creating all sorts of awkward folds and creases. There's an ingenious solution to this issue- to place your bag at the front of your body so that it frames your torso rather than cutting it up.

A clever caped showgoer (via refinery29.com)

Arizona Muse at the shows (via harpersbazaar.com)

HOORAY FOR HOUSE OF HACKNEY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

Today you should definitely pick up a copy of The Guardian, or head to the site to read Melanie's article all about how Made in Britain fashion is getting back in its groove, with everyone from ASOS to  Mulberry getting in on the action. During our research, I spoke to Frieda Gormley who along with her husband Javvy is the mastermind behind House of Hackney. If you haven't seen their stuff before, then be prepared to fall in love with their eccentrically British, fabulously printed aesthetic which plays out on everything from eiderdowns to lampshades to pyjamas and dresses.

Javvy M Royle and Frieda Gormley, creators of House of Hackney

This isn't just about looking like a brilliant blend of traditional English with a fresh twist; one of Freida and Javvy's founding principles is that everything should be Made in Britain. "When we started House of Hackney, the idea was so British that it was of paramount importance for us to manufacture in Britain" Frieda told me last week, "we spent six months driving around the UK, visiting factories and artisans". If that's not dedication to the cause, I don't know what is. It's not like Frieda and Javvy came at their business without any understanding of what they were letting themselves in for. Prior to setting up House of Hackney, Frieda was a buyer at Topshop where she worked on a project to create a collection of tailoring with Manchester factory, Coopers and Stollbrand so she knew all about the benefits and challenges which come with working with UK factories. She says one of their biggest problems is that they just can't do volume, which is perhaps why the recent Made in Britain revival has, on the whole, been one of niche, artisan products. Javvy had worked as a designer which means they had a dream team set-up for their business from the very beginning.

A room of Dalston Rose

A lovely summer dress in Dalston Candy 

There was never any intention to do fashion, despite that being their background. It was all about filling the gap they saw in interiors for a brand which wasn't minimal and bland, as had been the general trend for so long. When they began in 2010, the print revival in fashion coincided with what they were wanting to see in interiors. And so they created Dalston Rose which has a hint of the Toile de Jouy about it, with its blue and white colourway but with a more freehand English rose pattern. Then there's Hackney Empire, a collage of curious animals including badgers, bird and koalas. House of Hackney works with Stead McAlpin, a printers in Cumbria where the number of employees has risen from 45 to 150 in the past three years. Their look makes me think perhaps of Oscar Wilde's drawing room? Or an imagined version of Marie Antoinette's English country home?

A Hackney Empire boudoir

Wear the print: Hackney Empire bomber and joggers 

It wasn't long before the call to do fashion came, from none other than Opening Ceremony. "We launched early in 2011 and a month later they were asking us to do clothes" Frieda says, somewhat knowingly. There must have been some awareness, having come from the fashion industry, that what they were doing would attract attention from those quarters. In some ways, it reminds of the Laura Ashley story, a cool young couple making a modern version of something with heritage appeal and quickly branching out from fabrics to fashion. Frieda and Javvy work with the "inspiring" Jenny Holloway to produce their fashion collection, which will hit ASOS next week and is already stocked at Lane Crawford and Liberty. Barney's have also shown an interest. Holloway believes in fair conditions and a happy workforce. What Frieda loves most is that "everyone who works there is like us and their salary is going back into our community" which is a good way to sum up why Made in Britain makes so much sense.

A couple of years later and House of Hackney is going from strength to strength. We can go to them for anything from a big furniture or interior design commision to a pretty scarf or tea cup. What's more, Frieda and Javvy are more dedicated than ever to doing their bit for bringing manufacturing back to the UK. As Frieda puts it, "Javvy and I are really passionate about British manufacturing. We want to go beyond House of Hackney. Our medium term plan is to help factories get better at those bigger volumes and also to perhaps open our own factory. From a social point of view, we want to inspire people".

GETTING SPORTY WITH STELLA MCCARTNEY

Posted by Bethan Holt, Junior Fashion Editor at Large

There are plenty of brands around who you may think are trying to sell you a pair of shoes, or a jumper but really it's all about the life. Ralph Lauren and his wholesome all-American good life comes to mind as a classic example.  But if there's one woman who represents a perfected version of modern life, and can sell you must of the stuff you need to look the part, then Stella McCartney is your woman. Obviously, if you're going to look good in your strapless jumpsuit then exercise should be a key component of the Stella way of living, hence her almost decade long collaboration with Adidas. With that in mind, I popped over to Stella's Adidas store on Brompton Road to have a peek at the new Spring/ Summer collection and meet the woman herself.

Stella and I

"It's so much easier to lie on the sofa watching TV and eating a brownie" is one of the first things Stella tells us, "this collection is really about encouraging and inspiring something which isn't always so easy". The store is dotted with pieces which look almost too good to get sweaty in; icy blue metallic shorts, leopard print jackets, ditsy English garden florals and a very appealing tennis dress called The Barricade. On the walls, are zinging, psychedelic campaign images with models doing back flips, leaps and sprints. It really does make you want to get up and go.

"These are the pieces women deserve" Stella McCartney

It's easy now to take for granted that us girls have plenty of choice when it comes to really stylish yet technical and functional sportswear. But it was Stella McCartney's Adidas hook-up which really spurred on the world of sport to play fashion catch-up. It all began with a respect for the technical prowess of sportswear. "I wanted to do a sneaker on the runway, but I've never been a huge fan of fashion sneakers. I like sneakers to be technical, then bring fashion to it" Stella says. And so, women finally had something really desirable to wear when they exercised, rather than apologetically throwing on their boyfriend's musty old t-shirt. There's still progress to be made though Stella insists, "women in sport are totally undervalued. Men drive the industry, they have more investment. Football is king. These are reasons to encourage women to do sport".

Multiple collections, forays into many sports and one Olympics design job later, Stella's outlook is still pretty empowering. She uses words like "bold"and "celebrate" in reference to the latest offering. "Let's not apologise for anything" is the mantra. Her own latest exercise obsession is paddle boarding, so naturally she's catered for that. "I love that you're just outside, experiencing nature. If you get a chance to paddle board outside in the freezing cold Thames it's pretty delightful" she enthuses, though perhaps we should wait until it heats up a little for that foray?

Stella McCartney for Adidas SS13. All about "the real joy of working out"

"I'm over feeling ashamed that you might bump into someone you know when you're running.
When I run I want to feel like if I run into someone, I'm proud of the way I look" Stella McCartney

There are elements of Stella's ready-to-wear which have crept into the Adidas collection, despite efforts to keep them quite separate over the years. The Resort collection leopard print, the SS13 ditsy florals and popping bright colours, but all given a techy acid makeover. McCartney denies that sportswear being fashionable is any new thing, "there's always been energy in sportswear. I don't think it's just now. Think of the 80s. At some stage everything ends up on a runway. It's always been part of what I do". The added benefit of an Adidas x Stella McCartney product is that it will be infused with technology like Climacool or Techfit or some cutting edge new invention like water-free dye. It's a level of functionality which you don't see on most brands. And ethics, which we all know is a huge part of the no fur, no leather Stella life. But not even she is completely flawless; it was up to Adidas to teach her about the harmful effects of PVC.

In case you live on Planet Zog, you will be aware that it was Stella who was responsible for Team GB's kit at last year's olympics, all those slinky racing suits and peplum podium jackets. However she's actually just like you (maybe) and me (definitely) when it comes to what the Olympics meant. "My memory of it is more just experiencing it, like all of you guys. It was so surreal that I'd worked on it and when I watched it, those were things I designed. It was just too huge and surreal to think of it that way". Luckily, she's up for doing it all over again too, "I'd love to do it again, I'd do it forever and ever".

Images courtesy of Stella McCartney/ Adidas. Visit the Stella McCartney for Adidas store at 97, Brompton Road.