The protesters of OCCUPY London have been causing quite a stir since they set up camp in Paternoster Square, outside St. Paul's cathedral a few weeks ago. I must say that as a fashion journalist, I didn't really think there would be anything to report on, style wise, from the fracas. After all, from what I can gather, these people are broadly anti-capitalist, given that they claim our 'current system is undemocratic and unjust' and that would suggest to me that any kind of fashion story would involve the sandals and dreadlocks to be spotted out on the Square. That's just me stereotyping though.
So, I was somewhat surprised to open Monday's Evening Standard and find one of these ardent supporters of OCCUPY, Lucy McKay (aka Lucy Brisbane, apparently) modelling the latest peace sign leggings from Topshop topped with a peace sign sweater. The headline reads 'Radical Chic' and discusses all the coolest protest-appropriate fashion options.Now, if you are protesting about the inequalities which the current system operates under then I would imagine that one of your first priorities would be to not wear Topshop, given all the tax avoidance accusations regularly pointed at Phillip Green, who is surely the ultimate capitalist?
Amongst the comments beneath the article online, one person writes 'Lucy, you are wearing Topshop. Where are your morals?'. In a weak retaliation to her critics, Lucy says 'It's a fluffy fashion piece'. Is she trying to say that we can separate our fashion preferences from our political beliefs? That's an easy thing to do, but not something you might expect from a member of such a stalwart group of a few hundred who claim to be representing the best interests of 99% of us. It may have been somewhat more understandable if Lucy had modelled some fabulous ethical fashion, made in conditions which adhere to the changes she is campaigning for.
By calling it 'fluffy fashion' Lucy hugely undermines her raison d'etre at OCCUPY London. These days the clothes we choose to wear represent a belief system. So, in the same breath as protesting against capitalism, she is personally encouraging it (and financing it) with her choice of clothes. Someone bring her a sack.
Amongst the comments beneath the article online, one person writes 'Lucy, you are wearing Topshop. Where are your morals?'. In a weak retaliation to her critics, Lucy says 'It's a fluffy fashion piece'. Is she trying to say that we can separate our fashion preferences from our political beliefs? That's an easy thing to do, but not something you might expect from a member of such a stalwart group of a few hundred who claim to be representing the best interests of 99% of us. It may have been somewhat more understandable if Lucy had modelled some fabulous ethical fashion, made in conditions which adhere to the changes she is campaigning for.
By calling it 'fluffy fashion' Lucy hugely undermines her raison d'etre at OCCUPY London. These days the clothes we choose to wear represent a belief system. So, in the same breath as protesting against capitalism, she is personally encouraging it (and financing it) with her choice of clothes. Someone bring her a sack.
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| Dame Westwood is well know for her passionate views, but does she put them before her business interests? (image from elleuk.com) |
I don't proclaim to be any sort of expert on any of these matters; I am very interested in politics and am concerned about our current economic woes which often seem incomprehensibly profound and far-reaching. So I have certain sympathies with what OCCUPY seems to stand for, although nobody seems to be completely clear on exactly what that is. I am also seduced by fashion on a daily basis but know that there is a lot wrong with where we get our clothes from. Living an OCCUPY version of life is hard to envisage, but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't involve wearing Topshop or big business expansions. Lucy and Dame Vivienne are doing the cause they are allegedly supporting no favours whatsoever.
HERE IS THE OCCUPY LONDON MANIFESTO
'Occupy London stands together with occupations all over the world; we are the 99%. We are a peaceful non-hierarchical forum. We're in agreement that the current system is undemocratic and unjust. We need alternatives; you are invited to join us in debate and developing them; to create a better future for everyone'
I find what you say very interesting and I agree completely I have been researching subcultures and how in the sixties and eighties people wore clothes to express their political view but now it is non-existent, is there any chance you would be willing to answer some question on your views of political comment on fashion for my dissertation research?
ReplyDeleteI love this because you're asking the questions that need to be asked, not just brandishing an ill thought out cure-all solution. We need to talk about this stuff and challenge ourselves and our consumption habits rather than just ignoring the problems at large or pretending like by not engaging with them they will crumble. @matthewnation
ReplyDeleteI thought the same thing when I saw that piece in the Evening Standard. Aren't the protests anti-corporation? It was *such* an attention-grabbing stunt on behalf of the newspaper.
ReplyDeleteI am torn about Dame Vivienne though. She's always been a fashion anarchist but, as you say, she is a business owner. Conflicting interests.
You are wrong: the Occupy movement is not broadly "anti-capitalist." Many people within the movement are, but what most people want to simply a regulated form of capitalism that taxes the wealthy in a fair and proportionate way. In most countries, this doesn't happen, and in times of economic stress, it's the poor who have to pay.
ReplyDeleteI therefore don't think Vivienne Westwood is a hypocrite. Her clothes are not fast fashion. She's always supported good causes in a very practical way, and I am sure she would be happy to pay her taxes if the system was reconfigured in a new way (as it should be).
The other one, well, she just sounds like a well-meaning airhead.
Finally, I find it odd that you post this long article but didn't respond to a comment I left a couple of weeks ago when I asked you what you thought about outsourcing the manufacture of clothes designed by "young British designers" to "cheap labor" countries...?
I guess my question was too specific, whereas this post is generalized, misinformed and finger-pointing. Always easier to do that.
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ReplyDeleteHi admin
Cool blog,i really like it!
Hi Anne Marie,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comments. Slogans such as ‘Compost Capitalism’ and ‘Capitalism in Crisis’ do lend themselves to the conclusion that this is ‘broadly anti-capitalist’. I can see how some of the aims in the initial statement could be achieved in a much pared down version of our current capitalism but others such as no. 7 are undeniably anti-capitalist.
Vivienne Westwood may not be fast fashion in the way that Primark or Forever 21 are but nevertheless she mass manufactures many of her products; bags and perfumes for example. As the anonymous poster pointed out above, her recent ad campaign is highly questionable. I happen to have been to Tanzania and lived with people there for nearly two months and I cannot think of any worse way to show their plight than glamorise it by plastering it oxymoronically over the pages of fashion magazines. It’s hardly a practical way of improving their life chances, is it?
As to your comment previously, the young British designers have studios in London where they employ people. The like of Jonathan Saunders, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou (I could on…) have hugely raised the profile of British fashion. The fact they manufacture abroad is a fact of life and something they do not hide, nor do they partake in activities which might invite accusations of hypocrisy
Your blog post inspired me to post about my own thoughts on the Occupy movement, fashion, and consumer habits. I think we both share the same sentiments that we are concerned about the current state of the economy but find it difficult to properly address that while being seduced by fashion. Though, I agree with Anne Marie that it is not broadly anti-capitalist. I blame the media for perpetuating the idea that Occupy's message is unclear, when in fact it is not.
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