Just when we thought we might finally get some respite from the great weight debate...
Porenza schouler AW10
These are just a small selection of the size related stories I've spotted over the past couple of weeks:
Marc Jacobs insists he didn't use 'curvier' models in his AW10 show as a means to comment on the industry's ultra-skinny fixation: 'It wasn't a statement on age, and it wasn't a statement about body shape'. (WWD)
Michael Kors vows not to employ models under the age of 16, Natalia Vodianova admits to developing anorexia after the birth of her child, and Anna Wintour calls on designers to reverse the 'tyranny of sample sizes that barely fit a 13-year-old on the edge of puberty' (The Cut)
Twiggy claims all she ever wanted was 'A fairy godmother to make me look like Marilyn Monroe. I had no boobs, no hips, and I wanted them desperately' (AP)
Debenhams introduces size 16 mannequins in a bid to be more representative of the average woman (Belfast Telegraph)
Precious star Gabourey Sidibe is snubbed by Vogue insider: 'She's a joke in the fashion community. What she wore on the red carpet at the Academy Awards wasn't a dress, it was a tent' (NY Daily News)
Precious star Gabourey Sidibe is snubbed by Vogue insider: 'She's a joke in the fashion community. What she wore on the red carpet at the Academy Awards wasn't a dress, it was a tent' (NY Daily News)
You may even have seen French ELLE's plus size spread featuring the lovely Tara Lynn:
The question is how do you feel about it? New research from Arizona State University suggests that images featuring 'normal sized' women (whatever that really means) can actually make us feel worse about ourselves. The study divided women into three groups based on their Body Mass Index - underweight (below 18.5), normal (18.5 - 25), and overweight (25-30). The participants were then asked to evaluate their feelings whilst looking at adverts featuring models who ranged from very thin to very heavy.
The women classified as overweight were unhappy whether they were looking at tiny models or heavier ones, feeling uncomfortably similar to the latter and upsettingly distant from the former. In contrast the underweight participants were (smugly) comfortable whatever image they were viewing.
More surprising perhaps were the results from the group with normal BMIs. These participants were consumed with anxiety when faced with the larger models, imagining themselves to be much more similar to these women than they were in reality. For some reason we feel better about ourselves looking at unfathomably thin models! (Perhaps it's down to a classic case of numbness through over-exposure. Like when an English character pops up in an American film and for some reason they sound foreign). This is a thought that has been plaguing me for a while now. For years we imagined that if only editors would agree to feature more realistically sized models we would all feel a whole lot better about ourselves. Now our wish has finally been granted, only to leave us just as dissatisfied as before.
Whilst I fully agree that the fashion industry should shoulder some responsibility (in my opinion the model at the top of this post is painfully ill-looking and was probably an irresponsible hire) it irks me when people (my mother included) try to position it as a big bad machine sucking up perfectly ordinary happy girls and spitting them back out as anorexics. Anorexia is a vicious, all consuming, life ruining mental disorder. Friends of mine who are sufferers have much greater demons at work in their minds than simply the desire to look like waif-era Kate Moss. There will always be people thinner and more beautiful, but if we can cultivate better self-esteem and a foundation of worth based on intelligence, independence and morals we should be able to view magazines as, in the words of Karl Lagerfeld, 'dreams and illusions'.
Maybe it's ok that magazines don't reflect reality. They represent escapism and perfection which serve to energise and inspire readers - hopefully in a positive way.
Pic credits: Catwalking.com, fashionfoiegras.com
I just wish that there were more variety in the body types featured by fashion. Many body types can be beautiful.
ReplyDeleteI do think the move towards impossible thinness is being halted so it will veer towards the other way for a bit until it settles down. I have felt models have been too thin but this tends to be worse on catwalk than editorial. Equally society in general has embraced thinness as a sign of social status, health and wealth superiority and that isn't all down to the fashion industry.
ReplyDeleteThe problem is, no matter which size or shape we decide is the look of the moment, somebody always feels left out.
ReplyDeleteBoobs are back next season, which is great for those of us who have been hiding them away for years, but what about girls who aren't blessed in that department? They're going to feel inadequate now. It's all so complicated!
It is interesting that you say magazines don't reflect reality but represent escapism and perfection. The thin model you used as an example is unfortunate as she looks very unatractive (possibly male) and that has nothing to do with how thin she is. Certainly not perfect.
ReplyDeleteDesigners are quoted as saying that their clothing looks better on thinner models. That says more about the lack of skill of the designers than the models.
It would be nice to see a range of models with a healthy BMI wearing clothing that suit their shape
I think you're probably right Rachael, and to be honest Lara Stone is a great example of where I hope things will head. She's slim but strong and healthy looking. But it's going to take a long time to make that switch I think...
ReplyDeleteLara is certainly a pretty girl, especially when next to the 'thin model'. Take a look at www.realwomenrealstyle.blogspot.com where I feature inspiring women I spot on the street. Recently I was at Westfield for a fashion show. Some of the models looked like they weren't going to be able to walk to the end of the runway as their legs were to weak to lift up their feet.
ReplyDeleteIt seems that looking at pictures of ANY woman triggers a weird, low self-esteem triggering bout. That's because the way we all see ourselves is completely screwed up. I think what is going to start happening is more designers are going to hold up whatever the body du jour is is say, "This is beautiful," and women are going to start firing back, "Why? And why do you expect me to accept this?"
ReplyDeleteAnd this will be a positive thing.
Women are complex creatures. As you so rightly say Miss. Fash Junior, we always covet what we can't have. If someone has curly hair, they wish it to be straight; boyish hips, to be more curvy. Healthy looking models is the key. I saw an emerging trend at LFW of emaciated, frankly ill-looking models on the catwalk. Be that their natural size or not, that is not an aspirational look that I feel should be promoted.
ReplyDeleteKeep up the great work - a very thought provoking post x
Great post. I think the model at the top is not attractive at all, but I'm not sure that's down to her weight. I do agree that magazines are there for escapism so I get a bit fed up when people start waging war on skinny models. I think they know they have a choice of exactly skinny to get and I don't think it's right to blame the fashion industry for that. It was good to see the French Elle shoot - the model in that is beautiful although, sadly some people won't be able to look beyond the body shape to see that. I prefer looking at clothes modelled on healthily slim girls as opposed to rail thin; that detracts from the clothing for me.
ReplyDeleteThink I have a slight girl-crush on the lovely Tara Lynn!
ReplyDeleteI'm with Rachel, that Proenza Schouler model is just wrong, looks like an anorexic Prince.
ReplyDeleteI'm all for variety on the catwalk but a plus-sized model isn't variety in the right way. What we need is models of all shapes, not just sizes. All this is doing is showing thin girls and fat girls how to wear clothes. Though it's a start.
The issue with Gabourey Sidibe is far more telling; she looked like a frumpy matron at the Oscars. It's true, she is very large and the designers aren't used to catering for that size, but the world is changing, and they should learn that a fat girl wants to look her age too.
"Maybe it's ok that magazines don't reflect reality. They represent escapism and perfection which serve to energise and inspire readers - hopefully in a positive way." I really agree with this, if I want to see average girls I can just look out my window! Street style blogs and shows like Project runway really help to show the differnce between what the models look like in editorials / catwalk shows and the often staggering differnce in real life. Personally I love looking a the models, I think what a lot of women need is to work on their sef esteem rather than rant over what dress size models are. I am shocked to read that they would feel so bad about themselves just looking at a magazine - something that is suppost to be fun!
ReplyDelete